Monday, 12 April 2021

Caves, Rococo architecture and heritage Towns

Outside Giengen, there is the Charlottenhöhle which one of the longest caves open to visitors in southern Germany.  It is named after Queen Charlotte of Württemberg, who was queen at the time the cave was opened in 1893.  The guided tour lasts about an hour and one sees the humour applied to the various stalactites and stalagmites.  The appearance of the limestone is striking as is the coldness of the cave.  This was 4 July last and it was warm outside.  The cave was a different story.

The Charlottenhöhle brings another type of visitor.  As we arrived, we saw a wedding party leave.  A formation in the cave is known as the cathedral and this has become popular for weddings.  Of course, it is necessary for the bride to dress warmly (in Germany, the witnesses are not so important as in Ireland, so there is less emphasis on the bridesmaid's dresses - indeed, I've seen church weddings where the witnesses are two men or two women; a best man or a bride's maid are dispensable).  However, I think it is fair to say that the many people who choose venues like the Charlottenhöhle as their wedding venue want to do something different.  The Charlottenhöhle also has an interpretative centre which gives information on the type of wildlife which made its home in this habitat.  The archaeological heritage of this area outside Giengen is also very rich with several layers, explained very well on some of the signage.

On leaving Giengen, we called at the Benedictine abbey of Neresheim.  This is one of the later works of the architect Balthasar Neumann, who brought Bohemian Rococo architecture to Franconia.  Neresheim had been in Bavaria until it was annexed by Baden-Württemberg in 1810.  Though the monastery was secularised in 1802, it was re-opened as a monastery in 1919 and is still both a working monastery and also a parish church.  Most connoisseurs of architecture reckon the Basilica of Vierzehnheiligen to be Neumann's best work.  However, I have heard it argued that Neresheim is his masterpiece.  If you stand in the abbey church, you can see why.  On a sunny day, it is blinding.

Crossing back into Bavaria, we came to the town of Nördlingen.  This is an old town which is one of the three remaining German towns with its walls intact.  We spent the evening wandering around Nördlingen just admiring the architecture, particularly the Protestant church in the town square.  This was done with an ice cream.  We also sawa some nesting cranes on a rooftop.  I am not going to comment on the claims of Nördlingen to be the finest intact old town in Germany, but it is certainly admirable.


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